scripps
September 8, 2013 |

Energetic Waves at Agate Beach Research Project

Hello all of my fellow Surfrider friends! Just in case you end up hanging out at Agate beach anytime soon, and see a bunch of odd-looking scientific contraptions in seemingly random places, I thought I’d give you the skinny now, so that you aren’t left scratchin’ yer head next time you find yourself at the beach.

From now till sometime in December, some fine scientific folks from Scripps Institution of Oceanography will be collecting data at Agate Beach to measure the wave energy that is seen in a near-shore environment during heavy swells typically encountered during winter storms. The data collected will then be used to “test and calibrate numerical models simulating wave run-up and beach face erosion during storms”. Apparently the data is scant at this point, and researchers aim to improve coastal planning and beach management with the information and knowledge that this study will provide.

Along with all of the scientific equipment placed strategically along the beach, you may also see scientists pushing dolly’s through the surf, pulling GPS survey grade gear along the beach, riding quads on the sand, jet-skis in the surf-zone, and divers tending to the gear that’s underwater.

For anyone who is interested to find out more about this study, or if you have questions, there will be a public talk on Thursday, September 12th at 5pm at the Guin Library at Hatfield Marine Science Center. Just before the public talk, there will be a science seminar at 3:30pm geared for researchers and faculty of HMSC, but will also be open to the public. We’ll see you there!

 

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